About 15 minutes north of Borsh, the coast road runs above a deep, sheltered bay with a small fortress on a peninsula. This is Porto Palermo. The Himarë municipality calls the view one of the most beautiful in the region, and it is hard to argue.
The castle
The fortress was built in the early 19th century for Ali Pasha of Tepelena, who ruled much of this region. An inscription above the entrance dates it to 1804. It is considered the best preserved of the garrisons he built along this coast.
- The peninsula was once a small island that was later joined to the mainland.
- The fortress has three sides with large gun bastions at the corners and an open terrace facing south.
- Inside, a six-sided central hall with a domed ceiling and six large pillars connects the rooms where the soldiers lived.
- A staircase leads up to the terrace, where you get the best view over the bay.
It was never a large garrison. The English traveller William Martin Leake, who visited in the early 1800s, noted just ten men and two small cannon. The French consul François Pouqueville described the fort in 1806 as a square with bastions on a low, narrow neck of land, with warehouses, a customs house and a Greek church nearby. Today it stands almost alone in the bay, which is a large part of its charm.
The bay
The water in the bay is calm and very clear. There is a small beach near the castle, and Llamani beach lies a little further north along the coast. A swim after the castle makes a good afternoon.
What is off limits
The northern end of the bay holds a Cold War tunnel built for naval vessels. It is no longer in use, but it remains inside a military restricted zone. Respect signs and fences, and do not try to walk or drive into closed areas.
Practical tips
- Opening hours and tickets: we do not list them here because we cannot confirm them for the current season. Check on the spot, and bring some cash in lek.
- Shoes: the castle has stairs and uneven stone floors. Sandals with grip are fine, flip-flops are not ideal.
- Time to allow: 1 to 2 hours for the castle and the view, longer if you swim.
- With children: the rooms and the terrace are fun to explore, but there are stairs and unguarded edges, so keep little ones close.
- Best time: morning or late afternoon in summer, before or after the strongest heat.
Combine it
Porto Palermo pairs well with Qeparo, which you pass on the way from Borsh: old village in the morning, castle and a swim in the afternoon. For more ideas, see things to do near Borsh.
It is one of the easiest half-day trips from our apartments, and you are back on Borsh beach in time for the evening.
